Makes 3½ cups

½ tsp. dry yeast
¼ cup warm water
1¾ cups room temperature water
3½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour

Stir the yeast into the warm water and let stand until creamy, about 5 minutes. Stir in the remaining water and then the flour, 1 cup at a time. Mix with a wooden spoon for 3 to 4 minutes.

Remove to a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise at a cool room temperature for 6–24 hours. The starter will triple in volume and will still be wet and sticky when ready. Store in refrigerator.

DOUGH:

1 tsp. dry yeast
2 cups warm water
1 TBS barley malt
1 TBS salt
2 TBS sugar
1/3 cup olive oil
6½–7 cups bread flour
½ cup vital wheat gluten
2 TBS chopped fresh rosemary
2 cups Gaeta Italian olives, pitted and coarsely chopped

Sprinkle yeast over warm water, add barley malt, and stir with a fork. Add salt, sugar, olive oil, olives, rosemary, l½–2 cups bread flour, and wheat gluten. Add 3 cups of the Biga. Beat with the dough hook or wooden spoon until smooth, approximately 5 minutes. Add remaining flour, 1 cup at a time, stirring with wooden spoon until dough can be handled. Dough should be sticky. Crash dough against counter for about 5 minutes (if using machine, knead dough for 8–10 minutes on second speed). Add just enough flour to make workable dough (should clean the sides of the bowl). Dough should be soft and no longer sticky.

Preheat oven 450ºF.

Place dough in an oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and allow to rise in a warm place until doubled in volume. Remove dough from bowl, knead lightly, weigh out 2 ounce portions, and shape into rolls. Place on a parchment-lined sheet pan, sprinkled with cornmeal, and let rise until almost doubled. Slash tops and bake for 20–25 minutes, reduce oven temperature to 400ºF, and bake until internal temperature reaches 190º–210º. Be sure to spray the bottom of the oven 3–4 times and quickly close the door. Cool completely on racks before slicing.