Alumni Spotlight Archives
Ken DeFazio PCP '94
by Sharon Rice PCP '04, CCP
Ken DeFazio is a true classicist. So much that after 18 years as a chef working in highly-acclaimed restaurants, he decided to go to culinary school to learn the true foundations of his craft. Ken's life as a chef began as a child, helping his Calabrian grandmother in the kitchen. It was then that he discovered not only a love for cooking but a deep appreciation for authentic Italian cuisine. Those times spent at his grandmother's side made such a lasting impression on him that he named his Mansfield, Massachusetts, restaurant after her—Trattoria Della Nonna.From his grandmother's kitchen, Ken moved on to professional restaurants on both coasts, working his way up the kitchen ladder and becoming the executive chef in a number of prominent establishments.
After gaining such experience and knowledge, few would feel the need to attend culinary school. But, Ken wanted to learn the classical approach. He had worked with a number of chefs during his time in the kitchen and had discovered that every chef had their own perspective on the right way to prepare food. He wanted to learn the correct approach to the foundations so that his dishes would be truly authentic. It was then that he met Roberta Dowling and discovered The Cambridge School of Culinary Arts. He was impressed that Roberta taught only the classical method, and he enrolled in the Professional Chef's Program. While a student at The CSCA, he fine-tuned his skills and won the Julia Child Award.
After graduation, Ken worked with renowned Chef Barbara Lynch, who became a mentor to him, and ultimately he became head chef at the award-winning Trattoria Pulcinella. It was named the "Number One Authentic Italian Restaurant" in New England by Zagat's. At this point in his career, Ken became extremely interested in the old-world style of cooking and the simplicity of the Calabrian style. As executive chef at the Waltham-based Ristorante Marcellino's, owned by fellow Calabrian Salvatore Torcasio, an immigrant from the same area as Ken's grandmother, he was able to devote himself to this style of cooking. Salvatore and his family were the final ingredient that added to his sensibilities as a creator of authentic Italian cooking, and it was here that everything he had learned was put into perspective, especially in terms of his generational roots. With their help, he was able to reconnect with his family in Calabria and put the final touches on mastering the art of true Calabrese cooking. While in the hills of Calabria, he cooked in 35 homes with family and friends, not only to learn recipes but to study what dishes the locals cooked, the ingredients they used, and how they prepared them. In 2000, after this pivotal experience, he felt he was ready to open his own restaurant. He and his wife, Yvonne, who serves as the restaurant's general manager, chose Mansfield because of family ties to the area and their desire to raise their daughter outside of the city. He also hoped to offer the residents of Mansfield the opportunity to enjoy authentic Calabrian and Mediterranean cuisine as it was on noon's table back in his formative years.
His approach to cooking still remains true to his Calabrian rots today. At Trattoria Della Nonna, he serves only the freshest ingredients, and everything is made from scratch. Even the stuffed olives, pickled onions, fresh juices, poached stock, and the infused vodkas are made at the restaurant. Ken personally visits multiple vendors to select the best products on offer. Together with Yvonne, Ken offers diners a genuine Calabrian experience, as well as other region of Italy: the warmth of the restaurant's small, family-owned atmosphere to the main dining room's fireplace to the lounge's brick oven and array of small plate offerings. The restaurant also hosts wine tastings, with wines carefully chosen by Ken to match a specific menu, and they change 70% of their menu every six to seven weeks to offer guests a variety of traditional Italian fare. For anyone looking for an authentic Italian meal, Trattoria Della Nonna is the place to go.
Trattoria Della Nonna is located at 160 North Main Street in Mansfield; phone: 508-339-5432. www.trattoriadellanonna.com
Alumni Newsletter, Volume 7, Summer 2009
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